Food in Provence (and elsewhere)

Kinsale might be a pretty town but there aren’t many key places to visit apart from a number of boutiques and antique shops to wander in and out of. Kinsale was, though, the site of a key battle in the English conquest of the Irish earls. The English, after their conquests in the 12th century starting in Waterford, had seen their rule gradually pushed back to a region around Dublin by the late 16th century. The Spanish had been supporting the Irish earls for many years but decided to take a more active role and sent troops in a fleet of ships in 1601. Unfortunately, bad weather meant some had to turn back and those that did arrive to Ireland landed at Kinsale—not a great base militarily and 500km south of the main Irish forces. They were in Ulster and the two leaders were divided on tactics but eventually marched south to support the Spaniards who by then were besieged in Kinsale by English forces who had marched from Dublin.

Disagreement on tactics between the two Irish leaders, O’Neill and O’Donnell, continued—attack the English or besiege them in turn? The decision to attack turned to disaster, especially as the Spaniards stayed in the city rather than joining in the battle. The Spaniards were allowed to return to Spain; O’Donnell also went to Spain (but died soon after) and, although O’Neill continued his fight against the English, his campaign was over by 1603. Four years later he and other Irish chieftains went to Spain to try to raise an army but that never came to pass so the battle at Kinsale marked the end of Gaelic rule in Ireland.

History lesson over… Later in the 17th Century, two forts were built on the banks of the Brandon to guard access to Kinsale: James on the West, Charles on the East. There’s a pleasant (but surprisingly hilly!) walk from Kinsale proper to Summercove and Charles Fort which I visited late Saturday morning before a light lunch at the Bulman pub. (If you follow the link, you’ll see the front of the Bulman features Hugh O’Neill—probably the wiser of the two Irish leaders—and Don Juan d’Aquila, the leader of the Spaniards.)

Two more bits of Kinsale history. Robinson Crusoe’s voyage started here…

… and Kinsale was home to two members of the Shackleton expedition to Antarctica, the brothers Timothy and Mortimer McCarthy—with Timothy one of the crew with Shackleton in the lifeboat voyage to South Georgia.

Learning about Kinsale and famous citizens wasn’t, of course, the reason for my visit. That was rather to have dinner at Bastion which, according to the Michelin Guide, “is a contemporary restaurant owned and run by a talented couple: Paul McDonald cooks, while his wife Helen looks after the service.” Helen’s service was impeccable and Paul’s food very enjoyable. The menu included an excellent pigeon dish with salt-roast beetroot and a beetroot sauce. I just wish there’d been bread available to mop up the rest of that sauce! That’s a very minor complaint, though!

I make a vain attempt to visit the Wine Museum in Desmond Castle on Sunday morning; it’s clearly closed but for no obvious reason. So, after pottering around for a while and having a morning coffee, I head to Saint Francis Provisions for lunch. The Michelin Guide awards this a Bib Gourmand, saying “There’s just something so loveable about this laid-back little restaurant in the centre of a colourful coastal town. That’s largely down to the friendly and genuine service team, along with a wonderful buzz inside the small dining room that holds just 15 seats – the heated terrace is also a great place to sit.” I can confirm both the friendly service team and the heated terrace being a great place to sit. I was warned that I’d be sitting next to eight teenage girls when I booked my table on Friday night but they were no problem at all, unlike the band that set up in a nearby square and murdered 99 Red Balloons, Livin’ La Vida Loca and others.

As it turned out, there were just six at the birthday party so the table next to me was taken by two australians who left significant amounts of the plates they’d ordered which meant I had focaccia & romesco, Irish coppa and olives to accompany my anchovy & crisps and rabbit & chips sharing plates. The Michelin Guide also comments on the all natural wine list; I don’t know about that, but it features a red from Vinsobres that I felt I had to try—although I think the Spanish chef should suggest they have some Spanish reds and whites available by the glass.

Amusingly, two other Ballymaloe students turn up with guests in tow as I’m eating my lunch. Not really a surprise as MB from Pennywort gave the place a (well deserved) glowing recommendation in our Telegram group when people were asking after places to eat in Kinsale. There’s another Ballymaloe link too: one of the servers was on the previous 12 week course that started in January.

Talking of Ballymaloe, that’s where I headed after lunch to catch up on homework and prepare for the coming week.