Food in Provence (and elsewhere)

And indeed there’s a clear(ish) sky on Friday morning. As everything is pretty much ready, breakfast and crosswords then it’s time to load the panniers on the bike and set off. Leaving J. to load up the support vehicle and head out later. (And although the weather looks OK for the next few days, Monday and Tuesday around Lyon don’t look so good so rain gear has been added…)

As I cycle through Echenevex I can see drizzle against the Jura and it reaches me at the Naz hairpin. It’s only light, though, so no regrets leaving the waterproof with J. nor just after Thoiry and already I see the drizzle has headed up the mountains. So I have a clear sky (and a dry bench) at my usual first rest stop by the church in Péron. I add a stop, though, after crossing the Rhône and the initial relatively gentle climb up the bank on the Savoie side to take a couple of pictures.

Then it’s on to Seyssel. After painting my wheels white as I avoid a marquage convoy (which I have to pass on the left as we meet when they are level with cars parked in the cycle lane…) I stop for lunch (tuna sandwhich and apples [J. bought a sackful…]) by the river then cross into Ain for a post lunch café and an essential pit stop before heading on to Belley.

Things go well for the first few kilometres but somewhere around here I hit a sign saying the route is closed! As I’m nowhere near an obvious alternative paved route I take the muddy, potholed path that meanders through the woods. Fortunately I reach a paved path after a while, but with legs and bike covered in mud. A little further on I see a “diversion” sign for people coming the other way. A pity there wasn’t one for people going downhill…

After a while I start to question, I have to admit, my belief that I can cope with the additional ~40km or so. But I mostly persevere without electric assistance (battery use to Seyssel: 70%; from Seyssel to Belley: 4%) but with more frequent rest stops. Just before 15:30, though, I make it to the Ferme de Coron despite needing to turn left on a busy road… On the positive side, J. is there waiting and there is a secure place to store bikes. On the other hand the room I booked, though otherwise more than acceptable, is at the top of two flights of stairs! I stagger up (a couple of times…), have a bath and a (well deserved) rest.

Needless to say, I have no desire to cycle another 2-3km or so to hit 100km in a day. 97km suits me just fine. Coros/Strava, though, think it is just 91km as I forgot to resume my trip after a rest stop.

After the rest we head to the Brasserie des Terreaux. J. is pleased to see that most parking in Belley is en épi rather than parallel and we walk the last couple of hundred metres to the place which has a central fountain.

As Coros tells me I’ve expended nearly 3,500 calories I’m a little disappointed to have opted for just 6 snails rather than 12. Serving them in little crusty baskets rather than their shells is something I should try, though, . Fortunately, J’s terrine is copious so all is well, As are the diots de Bugey and the bottle of Manicle red, a cépage of which we were unaware. The cheese, although tasty is a little cold and the “plate” is more attractive than functional.