Food in Provence (and elsewhere)

Our hotel in Perpignan was well sited, right by Le Castillet, but that was pretty much all it had going for it—apart, perhaps, from a very quiet air conditioning unit which we could leave on all night so the room was refreshing given the high temperatures. After dumping our bags we head to the main square, La Loge, after a detour via Monoprix for J. to buy flannels and socks. Then over the canal to Les Halles where we have a beer whilst I write up Friday’s entry. The live music is getting a little irritating and the phone signal is poor so we look for other bars by the canal to find they are all closing at 7pm on a Friday! We head to a café/bar by Le Castillet but even that is winding up, something we find a little surprising. Anyway, that’s fine as we wander to Le 17 where we have a reservation at 8. Expecting a restaurant with a little terrace on the street, we find tables in a stunning setting between the cathedral and an old chapel.

Sadly, our breakfast the next morning was in stark contrast to the delicious meal at Le 17. We had been promised warm croissant. Tick. But the promised yoghurt wasn’t there and everything else—orange juice, bread, decor—was substandard. Plus the coffee machine didn’t work…

A little dispirited, we set off on the Green Guide walking tour. Along the way we are chased by a street cleaning machine but, fortunately, we are near a bookshop-cum-café so escape into that. After getting a little lost we find our way to the Palais des Rois de Majorque, the last stop on our tour. We opt for lunch at Le Figuier, near where we first met the street cleaning machine; this turns out to be an excellent choice. Then back to the hotel for a siesta as it’s too hot for anything else.

We hadn’t, when planning our weekends, taken into account that the Saturday night in Perpignan would be la fête de la musique, something which somewhat perturbed our pre-dinner drink plans—conversation was difficult, but somewhat compensated by the people watching opportunity. We were also surprised by the small number of diners at La Galinette but the reason was again la fête de la musique.

After another disappointing breakfast on Sunday (the less said the better…) we head off to Collioure where we arrive early enough to find a convenient parking place by the station. We visit the castle but find the church closed for renovation. Lunch is at Casa Léon where the friendly waiter gives us a poster for “Le Nit de St Joan”; a friendly owner of an art shop later provides us with a recycled poster tube. A little further along in our wanderings we find an artisan knife maker where I can’t resist the lure of a credit-card format knife. I’m sure it will be useful on some occasion or other. Back to Cap d’Agde for a swim, aperitif and a light dinner.